El Rosario, Sierra Chincua or Piedra Herrada?
The monarchs winter in a handful of forest sanctuaries on the border between Michoacán and the State of Mexico, and each tour goes to one or two of them. They differ in the drive, the crowd and the climb more than in the butterflies. This guide goes forest by forest, with the tours that reach each one.
Where the sanctuaries are
The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve lies roughly 100 km (60 miles) west-northwest of Mexico City. It straddles the state line, with part in Michoacán and part in the State of Mexico.
Only some of its forests open to visitors, each run with the local communities that own the land. The tours we compare reach four of them, two on each side of the border.
| Sanctuary | State | Nearest town | Trail | Our tours |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| El Rosario | Michoacán | Ocampo | Long climb, many steps | Alfredo Tour Guide, Michoacán Mágico, sometimes Yei Tours |
| Sierra Chincua | Michoacán | Angangueo | Usually gentler, longer path | Paseos Turisticos, sometimes Yei Tours |
| Piedra Herrada | State of Mexico | Valle de Bravo | Steep trail | Mexitours, EcoColors |
| Capulín | State of Mexico | Valle de Bravo area | See the listing | EcoColors |
El Rosario, the big one in Michoacán
El Rosario, up the mountain from Ocampo, is the largest and busiest of the visitor sanctuaries. Its trail is a long climb with many steps, and on weekends the path to the colony can feel crowded.
The Michoacán Mágico listing describes about 2 km (1.2 miles) from the entrance to the trees, around an hour each way at your own pace. Food stalls by the gate serve meals cooked by local women, which you pay for there.
From Morelia, Alfredo Tour Guide's small-group day from ~$179 goes here with the entrance included, as does Michoacán Mágico Tours from ~$108. That cheaper one leaves the entrance and food to you and allows only about 20 minutes at the colony.
Sierra Chincua, the gentler path near Angangueo
Sierra Chincua sits above the old mining town of Angangueo. Its path through the forest is usually gentler than El Rosario's, though often longer, which suits walkers who prefer distance to stairs.
From Mexico City, Paseos Turisticos' small-group day from ~$250 heads here, with about five hours set aside for the visit and a Michoacán lunch afterwards. Viator lists 4.8 from 60+ reviews, the most on any monarch tour.
The drive is the price you pay, at about 3–3.5 hours each way by the listing's estimate. Its booking is also non-refundable, so fix your dates first.
Sierra Chincua with lunch on the way back
Paseos Turisticos collects you from hotels on Reforma or in Polanco for a 12-hour small-group day, entrance and a Michoacán meal included.
Piedra Herrada, the closest to Mexico City
Piedra Herrada lies in the State of Mexico near Valle de Bravo. It is the shortest drive from the capital, which is why the budget coach days and the week-long trip both use it.
The trail is short but steep. Mexitours' coach from ~$91 includes a guided walk through the woods, then adds a waterfall and free time in Valle de Bravo, with the entrance of about 13 US dollars paid in cash on the day.
Capulín, the quieter extra
Capulín is a smaller sanctuary on the State of Mexico side. Among our tours only EcoColors' seven-day trip from ~$2,295 goes there, pairing it with Piedra Herrada from a base in Valle de Bravo.
Seeing two forests on separate days gives you a second chance if one morning is cold and grey. Our guide to staying near the colonies covers that trip and the do-it-yourself version.
Other sanctuaries exist, Cerro Pelón among them, but none of the tours we compare goes there.
What the four forests share
Whichever gate you walk through, the setting is much the same. The butterflies cluster on oyamel firs high on the slopes, at around 3,000 m (10,000 ft), where the cool, damp air lets them rest through the winter.
One fir can carry thousands of monarchs, so a big cluster looks like brown bark until the sun warms it. On a bright afternoon the wings open and orange fills the air between the trunks.
Local guides from the communities that own the forest often walk with groups at the colony. Food stalls and toilets usually sit near the entrance, so eat and use them before the climb rather than after you reach the trees.
The colony moves, and so does the walk
The butterflies do not hang in the same trees all winter. As the weeks pass the colony can shift within the forest, so the walk from the gate may be shorter or longer than the last visitor described.
Horses are usually offered for part of the way at these sanctuaries, led by local handlers, and you still walk the last stretch on foot. Agree the price before you get on, and read what the climb at altitude asks of you.
A private day from Morelia with Yei Tours from ~$200 picks El Rosario or Sierra Chincua on the morning by the weather. That flexibility helps, but it means you cannot promise yourself a particular forest.
How to choose
- Staying in Mexico City with one day to spare: Piedra Herrada for the shorter drive, Sierra Chincua for the gentler path
- Based in Morelia: El Rosario, the biggest colony, with a short road
- Unhappy on steps: Sierra Chincua, or a horse for part of the trail
- A week to spend: Piedra Herrada and Capulín from Valle de Bravo
Whichever forest you pick, the colonies are fullest in midwinter; our guide to the best time to visit has the details. For starting points, see Mexico City or Morelia, and for prices the cost comparison.